Haebangchon
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Discover
Where to Buy Korean Ceramics, Homeware and Kitchen Things (and What's Worth the Suitcase Weight)
Everyday dishes are cheapest at Namdaemun's Daedo Mall; artist ceramics are in Insadong and museum shops; bangjja brassware is real craft. Where to buy what, with prices.

Guide
Eating Vegetarian or Vegan in Seoul (Without Living on Convenience-Store Salads)
Korean food looks plant-heavy and isn't — kimchi has salted seafood, soups use anchovy stock. Temple food is the safe bet, Itaewon and Haebangchon are the vegan clusters.